Cookbooks Echo With the Wisdom of Chefs Past
Lance Murphey for The New York Times
By KATE MURPHY
Published: January 28, 2013
When her mother died three years ago, Lynell George, a writer and
assistant professor of journalism at Loyola Marymount University in Los
Angeles, assumed the responsibility of making the family’s traditional
New Year’s Day gumbo. Leafing through her mother’s cookbooks, she heard
her mother’s Creole-inflected voice in the margins.
“Things were crossed out, and she had left notes like ‘needs more crab’,
‘go Monday for Andouille’ and ‘no okra in this,’ ” Ms. George said. “It
was very emotional, like she was standing behind me.”
Ghosts linger in old cookbooks, possibly the most annotated form of
literature. People who wouldn’t dream of writing in other kinds of books
don’t hesitate to edit (“add 1/2 t. cayenne”), write reviews (“never
again”) and even note special occasions (“anniversary party ’84”) next
to recipes. Whether practical, historical, sentimental or smudged with
chocolate ganache, marginalia in cookbooks can tell the story of a life
and be a lasting memorial to the scribbler.
For Beth Ann Fennelly, a poet and associate professor of English at the
University of Mississippi in Oxford, reading her mother’s cookbooks is
like reading her diary.
“She would write not just the things you would expect next to a recipe,
like ‘raise the heat to 375 for the last 15 minutes,’ but she would
write down the guests who came to the dinner party, and the side
dishes,” Ms. Fennelly said. Moreover, her mother, a lifelong homemaker,
had a curiously haiku-ish way of noting how things were served: “The
asparagus soup on the yellow linen napkins with the crocus in the
Wedgewood.”
Ms. Fennelly has similarly annotated her own cookbooks to indicate which
recipes are her children’s favorites and the meal she made for her
husband when she told him they were expecting their second child. “It
was a roasted duck with port sauce that took eight hours to make,” she
said. “Dessert was him opening the little box that he thought was a pen
but contained the positive pregnancy test.”
The date, the menu and his surprise are all recorded in her cookbook.
“When I think of things one would grab in a fire, I think of my
cookbooks,” she said. “They are my treasures.”
Though Ms. Fennelly is unlikely to part with her cookbooks, booksellers
said her annotations might be a selling point. “There are collectors who
think marginalia is more valuable and interesting than the recipes,”
said Bonnie Slotnick, the eponymous owner of a Greenwich Village bookstore
that specializes in vintage cookbooks. “I used to apologize when there
was writing in books, but I have people who tell me, ‘No, that’s the
best part!’ ”
Paula Fujiwara, a San Francisco physician who collects 19th-century
cookbooks, considers marginalia a beckoning from beyond. “It gives you
an insight to another time and what the owners were thinking,” she said.
One of the more intriguing cookbooks in her collection is an 1859
compilation titled “Breakfast, Dinner and Tea.” It belonged to one Ellen
Pike, who, according to her spidery Victorian handwriting, adored dried
apple jelly. On several pages, she also poignantly noted the date her
year-old son died.
More humorous are the inscriptions that Robin Graham, a freelance editor
in Milwaukee who collects mid-20th-century cookbooks, found in a copy
of “The Special Diet Cookbook” by Marvin Small. Hand-printed on the
flyleaf of the 1952 book is an urgent and ungrammatical rant about the
mortal dangers of mustard, egg whites, pepper, vinegar and “land salt.”
On the first page of a chapter of recipes to relieve constipation, the
same person wrote, “This looks best.”
While it is unclear who owned the book, Ms. Graham envisions a bald,
portly man with glasses and a mustache. “It’s cool to put a face on it
and wonder who he was,” she said, adding that it is certainly not the
recipes in the book that appeal to her. “Who eats aspic?”
The jottings of culinary legends are particularly prized. Julia Child
prominently wrote her name in many of her cookbooks, as well as the date
she acquired them and which kitchen she used them in — she had homes in
Cambridge, Mass., and Provence in France. Her cookbook collection is now housed at Harvard, in the Schlesinger Library at the Radcliffe Institute for Advanced Study.
Mrs. Child’s most extensive notations, tellingly, are next to entries
concerning tripe and organ meats. But perhaps even more interesting are
the additions written by whoever gave her the book. One example is Nina Simonds,
whom Mrs. Child encouraged to pursue her interest in Chinese cuisine by
traveling to that country, where she ultimately translated and wrote
Chinese cookbooks.
“Nina Simonds sent a copy of one of her books to Julia and wrote a warm
full-page letter on the front flyleaf, because Chinese postal
regulations forbade the inclusion of a separate letter with a book,”
said Marylène Altieri, a curator at the Schlesinger Library. The chatty
note describes her apprenticeship in a small restaurant in China that
was “generous with the samples.”
The cutting wit of the renowned British food writer Elizabeth David is
evident in the marginalia of her cookbooks, now kept at the Guildhall Library
in London. Her scribbles are on bits of paper (grocery receipts, bus
tickets, postcards, Post-it notes) distributed throughout the texts. In
her copy of “The Cooking of Italy” (1969) by the American food writer
Waverley Root, she wrote, “Waverley Root is a pitiful phony.” Referring
to a recipe for cold macaroni salad involving “tinned pears” in “Ulster
Fare” (1945) by the Belfast Women’s Institute Club, Ms. David wrote,
“Sounds just about the most revolting dish ever devised.”
Whether famous chefs or ordinary home cooks, cookbook users tend to be
ready collaborators and critics, said Heather Jackson, professor of
English at the University of Toronto and the author of “Marginalia: Readers Writing in Books.”
Though they wouldn’t presume to delete characters or suggest an
alternate ending to say, a work of fiction, they’ll do the equivalent in
a cookbook. In the course of her research, Ms. Jackson said, she often
found changed recipes or entirely new ones written or pasted into
cookbooks.
“People might abhor notes or highlighting in other books, but no one
really minds seeing a cookbook get marked up,” she said. “What happens
over time is, these notes that seem practical and peripheral take on
historical value, and within a family or among friends they may take on
sentimental value.”
Recipe reviews and comments on Web sites like Epicurious.com and Allrecipes.com
just aren’t the same, said Laura Petelle, a lawyer in Peoria, Ill., who
marks up her own cookbooks and enjoys borrowing friends’ to look at
their notations. “Reading actual handwritten notes in a cookbook with
all the stains and the wrinkles, you come away with a personality, and
you’re learning what they make for their family and how they make it,”
she said. Besides, “People online are crazy, you know, suggesting you
substitute ketchup for tomatoes.”
As for cookbook authors, Anthony Bourdain, for one, said he would not be the least offended to learn that copies of his popular “Les Halles Cookbook”
were filled with users’ smears and suggestions. “It would please me
very much to think of someone scrawling in it,” he said, “or spilling
sauce on it, getting crushed pepper in the binding.”
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